art deco movement (1920 - 1939)
Historical background
movement named after 1925 Paris expo, between WWI & WWII, Jazz Age & Modernism, Egyptomania
Materials & techniques
platinum rules, but also now white gold, die striking & hand finishing, intricate & refined clasps/closures, à jour settings, invisible setting (VCA in 1933), cultured pearls (Mikimoto international expansion)
Themes & motifs
BOLD! geometry, symmetry, machinery, another period of revival & looking to other cultures (Egyptomania due to discovery of King Tut’s tomb in 1922, Japonisme, Chinoiserie), diamonds & big 3 gems rule but accented w onyx, coral, jade, lapis, turquoise for color contrast, tutti frutti (combos of multicolored carved gems)
makers to know
Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin, LaCloche Freres, Jean Despres, Hennell, Dreicer, Boivin
Must haves
Deco diamond bracelet, sautoir/rope of pearls, double clip brooches, jabot brooch
